To Pahalgam

28/07/2025

We woke up with a mind to get ready for the dream journey to Amarnath. Packed two backpacks with essentials for the trek to Holy Cave. Considering the excess weight, we left many things at the hotel where we stayed in Srinagar.

After taking an early lunch from a Bangla restaurant near our hotel, we left to Panta Chowk at around 10 am. It took hardly 30 minutes to reach Panta Chowk. 

With a lot of enthusiasm, we entered the camp area, where the security people greeted us with warmth.  

It was around 11 am, we were only two waiting for the bus at the parking slot. Around 1145 more people started arriving. Vandebharat Train from Katra arrives at Srinagar Station at 11 am. From the station to the yatra camp it takes hardly 10 mns by bus and the administration arranges a free shuttle bus service from the station to the camp.  Two JnK Government Roadways bus operated on these days . One to Baltal and another one to Pahalgam. The bus ticket to Pahalgam was approximately Rs. 230. The bus was packed by 12:00 pm. Our bus had yatris from different states. There were also innova/toyota qualis available on a sharing basis.

After a security check, the convoy was ready to move. Police and CRPF team formed the convoy, and our bus was in the middle. The patrolling team stopped all other vehicles coming either route to facilitate our convoy. The convoy format went very well till Anantnag. Then the local traffic disrupted the convoy, and one car even got punctured. 

The route reminded us our previous visit. Places like Pampore, Awantipura, Ananthnag etc. came in between. The safforn fields of Pampore, the cricket bat manufacturing units of Awantipura and the rural life of Anantnag etc. moved through the bus window.

CRPF personnel with careful eyes and ready to face any situation at every 100 meters. The Pahalgam terror attack came up in mind, when we were about to reach the Pahalgam area. The lush green mountains, Walnut farms, serence streams originating from galciers etc. are really enchanting. But the face of local people appeared to be indifferent as if they have no more excitement with the yatra or the tourism season.


By 4 pm, we reached the first entry point at Pahalgam. On the side of a stream/river permanent checking points have been made so that the yatris can formally enter the premises. The arrangements at the entry point to Pahalgam yatra appeared like the immigration clearance point in borders when we enter a new country.

After walking almost 100 plus meters, we reached the final point where our RFID tags have been scanned and the baggage has been screened. 

Then another 100 plus metres reached the campsite. Bhandaras were there in line. Tents appeared to be dirty, as the facility has been regulary in use.  There were good number of people readying for next days trip.

I

n the meantime, Sanghamitra found a Bengali couple who checked in a local hotel a little far from the camp. We followed their advice and moved towards the hotel, which was inside the village. The hotel was already packed, hence they accommodated us in their home. A perfect homestay. A spacious room which was used as a rental for tourists. The room was a part of the house. There were no beds, but the owner assured us that they will provide us mattresses in the evening. Bathroom and toilets were attached to the room.

The hous overlooks the mountains covered with devdar trees. The farmland had walnut trees and some apple trees. The resort-type hotel maintained its standard. There were local people staying nearby. 

After a short break, we went to a local shop and had tea. I felt like the local people were hesitant to speak as if there was some tension in the air. They thought that we were tourists, not yatris. I felt like I was in some foreign country, as there are very less people around and a complete silence in the air, although there were shops or houses around.

In the meantime, we could find some yatris walking in the road. Their language and attire made it very clear that they are going to participate in the yatra tomorrow. 

The resort owner in his late 60s had a clear political stand and business acumen. The CRPF men performing duty in the outpost in the village were highly vigilant too.

We had already ordered dinner at the homestay. A simple thali. Rice, Dal and a vegetable were served, which cost Rs. 200/- per person. To get ready for the next day's trip, we went to the bed early. 



The resort at Pahalgam

The ATV for tourists kept aside of the resort







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