Test of endurance
30/07/2025
The passed night was not easy. Could not sleep at all. There were frequent disturbances. I woke up early and went to the area where common toilets were placed. Although, it was not easy to get freshened up, I could do it some how. After brushing teeth, I realised temperature levels were very low. My palm was frozen.
I rushed towards the Bhandara to have some hot water. Though the water was not very hot, it was drinkable and found some relief. After having a cup of tea, moved back to the tent.
My co-pilgrims were ready to move. They packed their bags and was waiting for permission. They left the tent around 7 am.
Meantime, the announcement came that the yatra is halted due to poor weather conditions. Someone said that there was heavy rain last night and a landslide blocked the way.
I saw from my wife's condition that she won't be continuing the trip that day. She appeared to be very sick and rested in tent. Her conditions hinted that she plans to rest for the day or take rest.
After 8.30 am, the anoouncement came that yatra is allowed, but without horses. That means, the next couple of kilometres, we have to walk and the terrian is extremely tough.
I went again to the Bhandara and waited to see whether they will allow horses. The clouds and light shower indicated the whole day will be like that.
With a lot of disappointment I returned to the tent. I tried to convince Sanghamitra that it is better to move if they allow horses. The discomfort at the tent, weather and altitude sickness will put us further down. There were only two options left. The first option is to return back to the Pahalgam base camp. Second, continue the trip. I told her clearly that I am not going to return to Pahalgam. She will have to go alone.
While our confusion state didn't end, an announcement came at around 9.45 am that yatris are allowed to go with horses.
It gave us hope. I went outside and looked for raincoats. We bought two raincoats as extra care. Each cost us Rs. 400. Sanghamitra bought one pair of gloves.
By 10,30 am we packed our bags and reached the exit point. We covered backpacks with plastic bags.
An agent helped us to reach the point where we could hire horses.
After a short walk of around 500 metres, we reached the counter where we could book horses. We paid Rs. 4700 for two horses to take us to the next station, i.e., Panchtarni. The horses were brought by a young boy (he appeared like Amir Khan in the Raja Hindustani movie). His name was Farooq, very energetic and confident.
He handled two horses. He walked with the horse on which my wife was sitting, and I sat on a horse which was tied, with the horse moving ahead.
The track appeared to be very difficult. The path was mixed with a muddy track mixed with rain. Yatris decided to walk the entire stretch, which really deserves great appreciation, as the path was totally difficult to proceed. I felt very bad as the horse was struggling to move ahead at that altitude carrying me on its back.
En route, we reached the highest point known as M G Tok. The board ket there indicates, it was the place where Lord Shiva left Ganesh, his son.
The weather slightly improved, and our hopes returned.
Around 2.30 pm we reached a point called Paush Patri/Posh Patri. We were hungry, as well as Farooq. There was a disppointing information that yatra stopped for the day and yatris have to stay here. Farooq was restless. Our target was Panchtarni, and we could not
reach there. It is hardly 6 KM from here. We thought the security may allow yatra after a few hours and moved inside the Bhandara.
After having light food, we searched for a place to rest. The tented accommodation gave us some hope and the real experience...an unforgettable one in life. (To be continued)
